How To Remove & Replace A Radiator – The Ultimate Guide

How to remove and replace a radiator

So, you’re thinking of replacing a radiator in your home. Whether this is because your old radiator has finally kicked the bucket, or simply because you want to spruce up your space with a designer radiator, this step-by-step guide will take you through everything you need to know on how to safely remove your radiator and then replace it with a brand new one. Although even the most novice of DIYers can successfully replace a radiator themselves, if you’re not entirely confident when it comes to plumbing, there’s no shame in calling in the professionals (we won’t tell if you don’t!).

What Type Of Walls Are You Working With?

Firstly, regardless of what type of wall you have, make sure the wall that the new radiator will be installed on is up to scratch – any chinks, or if parts of the wall are beginning to crumble, should definitely be mended before your new radiator is fitted.

Now, before the removing and replacing can commence, it’s very important to establish what kind of wall you’ll be working with:

Masonry And Brick Walls

If your new radiator is going to be fitted to a wall made from traditional bricks and cement, then you’ll be glad to hear that you do not only have a bigger selection of radiators to choose from but also this type of wall is much sturdier than a stud work wall and therefore the fitting process will be considerably easier.

Studwork Walls

If your new radiator is going to be fitted to a stud work wall, then you need to determine exactly where the studs and noggins are located within the wall. In simple terms, stud walls are made from frames of timber or metal studs which are secured to the floor and ceiling and then covered with plasterboard, and it’s these lengths of horizontal and vertical studs within the wall that must be located.

The studs are the strongest part of your stud work wall and your new radiator brackets will have to be fixed to them to ensure that your new radiator will be properly supported. To locate them, you will need to invest in a digital detector (or stud finder as they’re also known as). This will set you back around £30, but this is a solid investment if you’re planning on fitting more than one radiator, or even if you just consider the money you’ll be saving by doing it yourself instead of hiring a plumber. You will also have to consider the size, shape, and material of the radiator if it’s being mounted onto studs – perhaps a more lightweight electric radiator would be better suited.

Removing and Replacing Your Radiator

To make the job as easy as possible, choose a radiator with the same pipe centres (that is, the same width between the two pipes at either end) as this means you won't have to make any adjustments to the existing pipework. If this isn't possible, and your new radiator is of a different shape or size – let's say you’re switching out a standard horizontal radiator for a more modern towel radiator – then you will need to completely drain your central heating system and adjust the pipework. Don't panic though, this is a reasonably easy fix! Just make sure you use the correct fittings and that there’s no skirting boards or floorboards in the way of you getting to the pipework.

Ok, so you have all the tools and you’re clued up on the type of wall you’re going to be working with. Follow these simple steps and you’ll have your new radiator fitted in no time!

Step 1

Before you begin, make sure your central heating is switched off. Then you’ll want to cut off the supply of water to the radiator that you are removing from the central heating circuit by closing off both the valves at each end. For a TRV (thermostatic radiator valve), ensure you've switched it to the 'off' position or to past zero, depending on your model of radiator. For a lockshield valve, remove the plastic guard and turn the shaft clockwise using the adjustable spanner. While you're doing this, make sure you count how many turns you make (note them down so you don’t forget!) so your new radiator can be set up the same.

Step 2

Next, sit the washing up bowl underneath the valve so it will collect the water that will shortly begin to drain out from your old radiator. Using the adjustable spanner, slightly loosen one of the cap nuts where the valve joins onto the radiator. Now here is where you will probably need to use the other adjustable spanner – to stop the pipework from twisting, hold the valve body tightly with the second spanner whilst you are loosening the cap nut. Then, open the bleed valve, loosen the cap nut that connects the valve and the radiator and allow the water to drain away. If the bowl is getting full with no sign of the water slowing down, simply tighten the cap nut to stop the water, empty the bowl, and then repeat this process until no more water is draining out. As soon as you're sure the radiator is empty, disconnect the valve at the other end.

Step 3

If your old radiator is particularly heavy or awkward then this is where a helping hand from a friend will prove useful. Now the valves are disconnected you can go ahead and lift your old radiator off its brackets, but make sure to do this at an angle and aim it into the washing up bowl so that if there is any more water inside, it will drain out into the bowl. We then suggest stuffing each end with a rag to prevent any drippage. If your new radiator requires new brackets, unscrew the old brackets first and then use your handy new digital detector to assist you in deciding the placement of your new brackets – before drilling into the wall, make sure there’s no pipes or wires in the way. If you’re drilling into a stud work wall, make sure that you’re drilling into a stud!

Step 4

Next, detach the valve connectors from the old radiator using your adjustable spanner and then clean them with steel wool. Now they’re clean, use the PTFE tape to create a watertight seal by wrapping the tape around the threads – 5 layers of tape is usually enough, but add a few more if you think it’s necessary. Secure the connectors onto your new radiator and make sure they are as tight as they can be before hanging your new radiator on its brackets. Now, remember the turns you counted and noted down earlier? Connect the valves and set them to the same number of turns that you counted before, and then allow the radiator to begin filling up with water. To assist the radiator in filling up, open the bleed valve (just a tad) to let any air escape – as soon as any water starts to spill out, quickly close the valve again. Finally, double-check that all of the valves on your new radiator are nice and tight, and also make sure there are no leaks or drips before you turn your central heating on. Now go ahead and turn your central heating on and check again thoroughly for any leaks.

Voila! Now you have a brand-new radiator sitting pretty on your wall, and you did it all yourself – we told you you could do it!

Pro tip: So now that you have successfully installed your new radiator, it’s always good to add some central heating protector liquid (corrosion inhibitor) to your central heating system. When a radiator is removed and replaced, the level of corrosion inhibitor will automatically drop, meaning it should be topped up right away.

But what is a corrosion inhibitor? To put it simply, a corrosion inhibitor is a liquid that keeps your central heating system healthy and running smoothly, as well as preventing general damage which will ultimately prolong its lifespan. It’s important to keep your heating system topped up with corrosion inhibitors as incorrect levels of the liquid can mean it's unsafe and can even render your warranty invalid!

It’s absolutely crucial that you use the correct type of corrosion inhibitor for your system. If you're uncertain, then it would be best to contact a professional plumber for guidance. The same goes for deciding on the volume of corrosion inhibitor to add to your system, as this will all depend on how many other radiators are fitted in the house and the size of the house itself – though usually this information can be found in the manufacturer’s instructions. Once you're sure you're using the correct type of corrosion inhibitor and you've established how much you need - you're good to go!